Dorothy, we're not in backpacker land anymore

Ubud has been very lovely so far. Unlike the rest of Indonesia which is predominantly Muslim, Bali is Hindu, and a very unique breed of Hindu at that. They mix it a lot with animism and it is very prevalent on a day to day basis. So, on top of the fact that the island is beautiful and blooming, as you walk by every shop they have carved chairs, statues, etc. with small fruit and flower offerings set aside that are changed multiple times per day. The doorways and walls of most dwelling reflect a style much more ornate than you should expect for such a small plot of land. Beauty isn't some goal of the Balinese--it's a given and essential to their way of life.

Because of this and its close proximity to Australia, Bali has been on the forefront of the backpacker scene for quite a while now. And what follows when backpackers call a place paradise too long is an expected conversion to more touristy travelers that have more money and more needs. They won't settle for third rate accommodation or food, so nicer places crop up and prices rise everywhere. Even the museum price has doubled since my guidebook was written. I have seen families with children for the first time in my trip, and they are everywhere! Bali seems to be the Quintana Roo of Australia. Luckily, that means they have good diving close by.

I went to the art museum yesterday, and fell in love with the rich, cramped style of Balinese art. I saw a few temples and then did a three hour traditional wood carving class, which was fun but definitely not easy! Today I'm headed to the monkey forest, complete with temples, and some traditional dancing tonight.

Tomorrow I head off to the much anticipated Gili islands for some world class diving. I may do a wreck dive on Sunday and will see what other sites they have for Monday and Tuesday. Then I have one day to relax and enjoy the main island before heading home! Crazy how the time flies.