Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vietnam. Show all posts

Thursday, June 28, 2012

Good day exploring Vietnamese history

Since I took it pretty easy yesterday (not that it mattered--it rained a lot yesterday and would have slowed me down even if I had intended to do a lot of sight seeing) I was refreshed and ready to take on the day this morning. I had a full breakfast at my hostel since it is included in the room rate and headed toward my first stop: the war remnants museum. The Vietnamese have been in the middle of too many colonization attempts (real, perceived, or ambiguous) for their liking, the most recent and/or despised being the Chinese, French, and Americans. Because of this, the museum apparently used to be called the museum of Chinese and American war atrocities--and it's not hard to imagine why that name didn't stick. I was told from the start, and assumed from the other museums I have seen, that the museum would be very one-sided. And, to a good degree, it was. However, it really wasn't as biased as I could have imagined (that could be indicative of the Vietnamese government actually doing a better job or just of how low my expectations were--I don't know yet).

The outside lawn of the museum has helicopters, tanks, planes, and long range missile launchers parked outside to show the sheer quality and quantity of brilliantly destructive equipment the US government had at their disposal. The ground floor showed an exhibition of the people that "supported a free Vietnam", a euphemism for the people that spoke out against the US aiding in the South's war effort (the distinction, of course, being that disagreeing with an outside country's involvement with a civil war does not necessarily mean they support the side that ended up winning it). I was impressed that they spent so much time documenting the protests in the US, including Kent State. It surprised me only because it seemed to really attempt to paint some Americans in a positive light--not all Americans were the "colonial aggressors" (a term wrongfully adopted by the North) the VC fought against; many were against the war and extremely vocal about it. In another floor, I was sad to see that they kept a really good explanation of the typical American soldier's psyche during the war in English without translating it for the Vietnamese. I think it would have been very moving for the Vietnamese. After all, the college-age boys that too often were the ones on the from line weren't the politicians escalating the war. They were victims too, even if they are painted as killers. Seeing this side is essential and something most Americans have access to, especially through amazing writers like Tim O'brien. The other exhibits were dedicated the the massacres, like My Lai, amid quotes of European intellectuals condemning the actions, along with pictures of victims on Agent Orange, which was terribly sad. As we know too well, civilians and soldiers from both sides were affected because chemicals don't care whether you have a gun in your hand or what color your uniform is.


After that, I went to the museum of Ho Chi Minh City, which was extremely interesting because it covered everything from previous invasions and uprisings to the crafts that were native to the city and where they came from, art, traditional ceremonies, and an economic history detailing changes in imports/explores and GDP. At the time, There were also two Vietnamese brides that came to the beautiful museum building to get their wedding photos taken. It was fun to watch them, one in white and one in red, pose with their new husbands.


After the museum I headed over to the Reunification Palace, which used to be the President's palace before the end of the war.

For dinner, I went to a coffee shop that reminds me very much of Starbucks to escape the chaos. However, I won't just be drinking a mocha and eating banana bread. When in Saigon, do as the Saigonese do--and Saigonese love their noodle soup, or pho. So I had a cup of strong Vietnamese coffee, sweetened with condensed milk the way they like it, and some delicious beef pho. The one thing I don't think I'll try here is the weasel coffee. It is normal coffee beans fed to a weasel and collected after it's made the trip through their digestive system--noooo thanks!


Tonight I will meet up with a French Canadian I met in Hanoi who finished her bus trip from there to Saigon a few days ago--it's great that you can keep running into the same people here. After that I'll be off to bed and then wake up early for a tour of the Mekong Delta south of here, which is supposed to be stunning. Hope you are all well and, if you can believe it, I'll already be heading home in three weeks! How the time flies.

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Saigon explorations

I've very much enjoyed Saigon so far--overall I really think I've enjoyed Vietnam the most of all the countries. Yesterday we explored the Cu Chi tunnels that the VC used during the Vietnam War when taking Saigon. The propaganda surrounding the war is very interesting (though I'm not sure how effective it is) and I may talk about it some time later. Later that night we had some drinks at the Rex hotel with a couple young men we met on the tour who were working in architecture and oil and gas.

Today my companion left me--so sad! But I was able to meet up with a future classmate in the afternoon and visit the city's jade pagoda before getting some good pho bò (Vietnamese beef noodle soup) near the night market. Tomorrow I will hit up the museums and the next day do a day tour of the Mekong Delta before leaving on the 30th for Singapore.

Monday, June 25, 2012

Got into Saigon!

Just a quick update that we got into Saigon. I'll write more soon but for now we are off to the Cu Chi tunnels!

Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Water Puppets

I went to the water puppet theater last night, and it was so fun! And it had A/C, so I was doubly happy.

Ho Chi Minh

Saw the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, museum, and homes today. It was a very interesting experience and made me think a lot.

I want to write about my thoughts on Hanoi, Sapa, the mausoleum and the Vietnam War, but I'm completely wiped out right now because of the heat. Look at that--and it's already afternoon!


 I'm off to the water puppet show for now!

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Saps Trek Success!

I just finished my trek through Sapa, a town in northern Vietnam that is home to many minority villages. It was absolutely stunning. I'll be taking a sleeper train tonight to get back to Hanoi and I'll write more then, when I can use a computer rather than my iPhone. Talk soon!

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Back from Halong--sunburnt but happy!


I got back yesterday from my tour of Halong Bay, and it was fantastic! I went on a tour with my hostel and we were gone for three days and two nights. I did the Rock Long Rock Hard tour with Ma May Hanoi Backpackers Hostel, and I can give a very positive review with only one real annoyance. The first day we bussed for 4 hours to the shore and then went onto our junker, the Jolly Roger, for an hour and a half to get to our spot for the night. We cruised past the hundreds of islets that dot the bay. There are supposed to be almost 2000 of them, the biggest being Cat Ba Island. It's a sight like nothing you will ever see anywhere else--almost otherworldly. There are also fishing villages that nestle themselves in the karst landscape and, unless for school, childbirth, or selling their wares, they never step foot on land. They all give birth in the same place, a building set atop one of the islets. It's quite odd--the women are sent to the house to give birth but are not allowed to have any help along the way. They are left for an entire month on their own, and if they or their infant die during the time no will know or be able to help. How I would hate to be a woman in that village!

I was the only American except for our tour guide's girlfriend in a group of 40+ people. There were a group of Dutch, French Canadians, and Australians, but most people were Brits. I guess Americans just don't do SE Asia as often. Once we got to the Jolly Roger we got ready to swim--it's always ridiculously hot and humid here and you pretty much just surrender yourself to the sweat. We jumped off the boat and swam around. It being a group of young backpackers and our guide being a partying alcoholic, there were offers of free beer for people that jumped off the boat naked. I can't say I regret not participating, but it was still funny to watch. After that we went kayaking through the bay for a bit. We wanted to under and through a cave with our kayaks, but since it was high tide we couldn't fit. Instead, we moved to a different cave that we could enter and went spelunking for about an hour. The cave was pretty nasty because of all the bats and bat droppings, but it was fun to explore and we saw some good stalactites and stalactmites. Also, the limestone glistens in a pretty way when you shine light over it--it was a lovely effect.

After kayaking, we came back to the boat and had a delicious fresh seafood meal, followed by a good amount of drinking (beer never gets more expensive thatn $1.25) until I, tired as hell from traveling and jet lag, went to bed at 10. I woke up at 6:30 but couldn't really see sunrise because an islet was covering the horizon, but it was beautiful and very peaceful the sit on the deck of the ship, rocking in the bay and listening to the island bugs buzz with lfe. With our Jolly Roger cruise out of the way, it was time to go to our private island for the day, Castaway, to indulge in some great sprorting fun.

We cruised another two hours deeper into the bay, which only got more beautiful as we continued. We saw significantly more fishing villages here as well. Our private island was beatiful, and since it was now low the beach was huge. We went swimming for a while and then I learned to wakeboard, which was fun but difficult with only 8 tries! They also had climbing set up, one medium course and one difficult one, and I was able to do both without falling and/or slipping. Both climbing guides were Americans, so it was fun to talk to them and hear their story. They really wanted me to try solo climbing, which is when you get a boat and ride up to the rock face in the islets and climb without any gear. Once you get high enough you just jump back into the water, and repeat until you're too tired. It sounded really fun but I didn't have the time. Maybe next time I find myslef here.


The whole day I spent a lot of time meeting all the different groups of people--the one nice thing about traveling solo is it forces you to meet people and to be social. They all had interesting stories and had traveled quite a bit already, so I also got some helpful tips for my other destinations along the way. Everyone is so nice, and so pleased to find an American that really wants to learn about their culture. It's crazy that it was not unusual for the Dutch group that they knew 5 languages proficiently, and here I am with more language knowledge than the average American and I only know 2!

Later that night I got to know them better as we played some more drinking games and went swimming. I guess this trip is known for being a party one, but our group had a good balance and never got out of control. However, our guide wasn't so happy about that, so when he realized no one was going to be getting naked again without an incentive for free drinks he pouted and went to bed--I think him being pushy about drinking was really my only complaint about the trip. After the party was over, we went swimming again for a bit and admired the bioluminescence in the water and went to bed. We slept in huts on the beach, and about 6 people fit in each one. There were padded mats on the ground and mosquito nets, and though it was very simple I had no problem sleeping. The next morning we go up bright and early and started our cruise back to land. We boarded our minibus and after four hours of cramped driving got back to our hostel at around 5 pm. I was really tired but knew if I napped it would continue my jet lag and make it harder to go to sleep again, so I just relaxed in the hostel and got some dinner. After a good night's sleep, I got up and took my time with breakfast before going on a walking tour of Old Town Hanoi, which I'll talk about in a separate post.

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Ready for Halong Bay after a long night

I got into Hanoi safe and sound--though I'll admit it was quite the adventure. Luckily I made a couple friends and that allowed me to get to the hostel faster and with little worry for my safety. The Halong Bay tour is due to start in about an hour. My iPhone is running low on battery and I doubt there will be any computers on our boat, so it may be a day or two before I update this or email anyone. If you're concerned just shoot my local phone a text--I should still have service most of the time. Onward I go!